REVIEW OF STREETSTYLE BY
TED POLHEMUS
Streetstyle is both my least theoretical and my most financially
successful book. Coincidence? The awesomely extensive research necessary
for its creation was made possible by the fact that I was receiving a monthly
wage from the Victoria & Albert museum to research the same subject for
what turned out to be a very successful exhibition.
What I find most remarkable and delightful about Streetstyle is the
extent to which a history of fifty years of streetstyle turns out to be
an effective history of everything which has happened in the last fifty
years of Western history. For example, in explaining the rise of the Teddy
Boys in 1950s Britain one is simultaneously explaining the rise of the Labour
party. Likewise, the rise of ‘dressing down’ subcultures such as the Beats,
the Hippies and then Rave, reveals both the cultural impact of economic
affluence and the extent to which the search for authenticity lies at what
should be the heart of Western culture in the second half of the 20th century.
Streetstyle also precisely plots the way in which the second half
of the 20th century - uniquely - saw the concept of ‘Culture’ redefined
not only to include that which would previously have been dismissively labelled
as ‘popular’ but, indeed, to be captivated by it.
I mention all this not only to underline my remarkable talent, but also
to contradict those who would have us believe that appearance style constitutes
a mere superficial irrelevance. Style isn’t simply an icing on the cake
of culture; it is culture - generating as well as expressing the profound
tectonic shifts of history. (And, by the way, it was always so.)
Yes, Streetstyle is still in print!
- Ted Polhemus
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